Since almost every salon patron, except those with naturally curly hair, has a permanent wave, the chances are that most of your tint patrons will be permanent-wave customers as well.
Both permanent waving and haircoloring involve changes in the chemistry of the hair so it is important to know how these react on each other, and how to schedule permanent-waving and coloring treatments.
A TINT OR A PERMANENT — WHICH COMES FIRST?
One of the questions most frequently asked by hairdressers in con nection with permanent-waving and tinting is, "Which treatment shall I give first — the permanent wave or the tint?"
Give the permanent wave first because permanent waving always changes somewhat the color of tinted hair. This rule applies both to hair that has never been tinted or bleached, and to tinted or bleached hair in need of a retouch.
If it is absolutely necessary, it is possible to give both permanent- wave and haircoloring treatments on the same day. It is preferable, however, to allow at least a day or two to elapse between treatments.
If a patron must have a permanent wave on the same day her tint treatment has been scheduled, it can be done, but greater care than usual should be taken—with the permanent wave given first, of course.
Frequent strand tests should be taken during the color treatment because the color will develop more rapidly after a permanent wave. It is also advisable to dilute the tint with a greater quantity of shampoo when giving the final soap cap. Development time and the degree of dilution can be pre-determined in the preliminary strand test.
If pre-bleaching is required, it is advisable to bleach first, then give the permanent, then apply the tint.
If a situation should arise where the patron has had her hair tinted and then decides to have a permanent wave, it is advisable to wait at least 24 hours before giving the permanent. During this 24-hour period the color has a chance to set. This reduces the possibility of the waving solution or neutralizer causing too great a change in color.
For best results wait a week after the permanent wave before applying hair color.
PERMANENT-WAVE LOTIONS FOR TINTED AND BLEACHED HAIR
More and more beauticians are faced with the problem of giving permanent-wave treatments on hair that has been previously tinted or bleached. Since tinted and bleached hair is usually more porous than normal hair, it will have a tendency to curl more quickly. For this reason, manufacturers of permanent-wave lotions have developed spe cial products designed to overcome this problem.
Cold-wave manufacturers offer a permanent-wave lotion for normal hair and a special permanent-wave lotion for bleached and tinted hair. The lotions for bleached and tinted hair are weaker than those for normal hair. This compensates for the tendency of the hair to curl quickly. Some cold-wave manufacturers offer another special lotion for highly bleached hair. This is even weaker than the first two.
Sometimes when taking a test curl on tinted or bleached hair, you may find that even the weakest lotion causes the hair to curl too quickly and too much. In this case, the lotion should be diluted even further with water.