In hot waving there are two different kinds of lotions. One is for normal hair and one is for bleached and tinted hair. In the case of hot waves, your test curl will determine the length of time the heat is to be applied. It should be remembered that less heat is needed for tinted and bleached hair.
PERMANENT WAVING ON PROBLEM HAIR
1. HIGHLY BLEACHED HAIR. It is important to determine to what
extent highly bleached hair has been over-bleached, before a per
manent wave is given. There are two ways of doing this:
a. Over-bleached hair is recognized by its gummy texture when
wet; it becomes matted easily.
b. If the test curl shows hair breakage, over-bleaching is indicated.
In either case no permanent should be given until after hair has
(See Chapter 15 — "Reconditioning Damaged Hair.")
It is possible that a permanent wave can be given in some cases
of over-bleached hair. Your test curl will determine this.
2. PURE EGYPTIAN HENNAED HAIR. Permanent waving may be
done successfully on hair that has been treated with Egyptian
Henna. However, since Egyptian Henna coats the hair, this coat
ing may become excessively heavy and make the permanent wave
difficult to achieve.
By taking a test curl, you can discover if hair has been coated with henna. If this is the case, when you take the test curl you may find that the coating interferes with the penetration of the waving lotion and an unusually long processing period will be required. Another possibility is that the hair may discolor and go dark. This is particularly likely to happen during a hot wave treatment. In either event, some of the coating must be removed before the permanent wave treatment is given. This can be done through either one or a series of Metalex treatments. (See Chapter 15 — "Reconditioning Damaged Hair.")
3. HAIR COATED BY METALLIC PREPARATIONS. Hair that has been treated with metallic preparations, such as compound hennas, hair restorers, or metallic dyes, are usually coated and rarely respond successfully to a permanent-wave treatment. The chemical reaction of these preparations with the permanent-wave lotion will cause the hair to discolor and break. Your test curl will help deter mine if these preparations are present in the hair.
If the test curl shows discoloration or breakage, the coating must be removed before the permanent wave is attempted. This may be done with a series of Metalex treatments. Be sure, however, to give another test curl after the reconditioning treatments are completed before attempting to start your permanent wave.
Occasionally the hair is so badly coated and damaged by these preparations that no wave should be given until new hair grows out.
THE TEST CURL
As you have seen, the test curl plays an important role in determining the type of permanent wave to be given, particularly on tinted and bleached hair. Just as the strand test can save you a great deal of time in predetermining the type of coloring to be used and the amount of development time to be allowed in tinting, so does the test curl help you predetermine the final results of your permanet-wave treatment. The test curl can also help you determine what preliminary steps, such as reconditioning, are necessary before the application of the permanent- wave lotion. Many of the problems in permanent waving may be avoided through proper use of the test curl.