Today, high fashion blonding is one of the most important and profit able salon services. It offers the best showcase any hairdresser can have for her skill as a haircolorist. For this reason, we have considered pre- bleaching for Clairol Creme Toners apart from regular bleaching.
The key to successful toning results is proper pre-bleaching com bined with the right selection and application of the toner color. Hair must be made light enough and porous enough to be receptive to the delicate toner colors.
Hair goes through many changes of color as it lightens during bleaching. A natural head of black hair will go through seven stages before it reaches the Pale Yellow (almost white) Stage. The degree hair lightens depends on the amount of time the bleach is left on. Note how red tones are eliminated as final stages of bleaching are reached.
The high fashion toner shades are achieved by bleaching hair to the stage required for the toner selected—gold, yellow or pale yellow, then coloring it with a tint. The decolorizing process is called pre-bleaching and the coloring process is called toning. The tint colors are called toners. PROPER PRE-BLEACHING FOR BLONDE TONERS
Hair goes through many changes of color during bleaching. For in stance a natural head of black hair will go from black to brown, to red to red-gold to gold to yellow and finally to the pale yellow or almost white stage. Hair must be lightened to one of the last three stages for successful application of Clairol Creme Toners.
Bleach not only lightens the hair, but makes it more porous. Porosity can only be achieved by leaving the bleach on long enough. On dark hair, the amount of time required to produce the pale yellow stage will give the hair sufficient porosity. Naturally blonde hair, however, reaches the pale yellow stage very quickly and while it may be light enough it may not be porous enough. Frequently, it takes less time to lighten than to develop the required porosity, and additional time must be allowed for this. The bleach should remain on the hair not less than forty-five minutes and up to two hours or more on coarse, resistant or dark hair.
To check porosity, make a color strand test with the toner. If the hair is porous enough, it will absorb color. If not, it will throw off the color. RETOUCHING THE BLONDE SHADES
You should advise your patrons not to wait too long between retouches
for the blonde shades. If they do, they will have to go through almost as long a pre-bleaching period as they did for the original application. If a customer has her hair retouched before there is too much resistant new growth, she will save herself time and expense.
Dark brown or black hair should be retouched weekly. Medium brown hair or hair with a quantity of red pigment should be done every two weeks. You may wait three weeks before retouching light brown or blonde hair.
PRE-BLEACHING WHITE AND GRAY HAIR
It is a common mistake to assume that white hair, because it appears
to have already reached a stage of almost complete decolorization, does not need pre-bleaching before application of the Blonde Toners.
It is true that lengthy bleaching is not necessary; but a certain amount of bleaching must be done to make the hair uniformly porous enough to receive the toner properly.
This is particularly important when gray hair is a mixture of light and dark strands.
HOW TO APPLY BLEACHES
Before you start, assemble materials required and prepare fresh bleaching mixture according to directions for product selected (See Chapter 9, pages 75-77).
APPLICATION TO VIRGIN HAIR:
1. Part hair in four sections. Rat-tail comb or appli cator may be used for this purpose.
2. Make ½-inch partings at the darkest part of hair (usually the back of head). Start application 1-inch away from scalp. (Omit ends if they lightened too much during preliminary strand test.) Apply mixture generously to make sure each strand is thoroughly saturated. Use brush or applicator for this purpose.
3. Work mixture into hair with fingers. Then con tinue ½-inch partings and application until all four quarters are covered.
4. When hair is almost light enough (nearly gold stage for pre-bleaching), apply mixture throughout hair and pile on top of head.
5. Make first strand test about 10 minutes before preliminary strand test indicated necessary. Dry 1-inch strand. If shade is not light enough, reapply mixture and continue testing frequently.
6. When desired shade is reached, rinse and shampoo immediately. Hair is ready for setting or application of Clairol Creme Toner.
- To brighten and highlight for a slight color change, see page 77.
- For hairdressers who work slowly and use brush instead of appli
cator, the following procedure is recommended:
Mix only half the required quantity of bleach. Apply mixture first to the back of the head. When the application is completed, mix the remainder of the bleach and apply it to the remaining portion of the head. This will give fresh, quick-acting bleach for the entire head.
- Divide hair in four sections, then make ⅛ inch partings using rat-tail comb or applicator. Apply bleach generously to new growth. Do not overlap into hair previously bleached.
- After first 15-20 minutes, dry 1-inch strand and test for color. If it has not been reached, reapply mixture and continue testing frequently.
- When desired shade is reached, rinse and shampoo im mediately. Hair is ready for setting or application of Clairol Creme Toner.