Remember that the bleach should be applied to the new growth only, and not carried down the hair shaft. When this is done, breakage may result and the hair may not hold color.
There are three exceptions to this:
- If a lighter shade is desired, the bleach should be carried through
the entire strand when the roots are almost light enough. Leave
the bleach on until the shaft has lightened sufficiently.
- If it is simply another color that is desired, the bleach should be
carried through the entire strand after it has developed fully at
the roots and just before it is rinsed from the hair.
- If color has become a little heavy or muddy after two or three re
touches, bring bleach through for last five minutes. Whenever
bringing bleach through, use whatever bleach is left from applica
tion. Do not use a fresh mixture.
RESULTS OF IMPROPER PRE-BLEACHING
Improper pre-bleaching may lead to any of the following results: 1. The hair may have a greenish cast after the application of a toner with a blue base. If the hair has not been sufficiently bleached, the gold tones in the hair will combine with the blue in the toner to give a greenish cast.
- Uneven bleaching which will result in an uneven finished color.
- Damaged hair resulting in breakage.
It is important that the bleach be thoroughly rinsed from the hair. Any bleach which may remain is apt to interfere with proper penetration of the toner.
If enough bleach is left in the hair, it will actually destroy the color value of the toner. This happens most frequently at the front and back hairlines. For this reason it is advisable to give one shampoo at the end of the bleach treatment.
Care should be taken not to leave the hair too wet prior to toning. If excessive moisture remains on the hair, the color will be diluted and parts of the hair, particularly the ends, may not receive enough color. Before the toning, hair should be towel-dried and left just damp.
CORRECTING UNEVEN PRE-BLEACHING
Because of the unevenness of natural pigmentation, hair is often not bleached evenly from top to bottom. This may, also, be due to careless application of the bleach. When this happens, gold bands or spots appear through the toner. This signifies that these areas have not been lightened enough. Spot bleaching is then necessary.
At the next retouch, after the bleach has been applied to the retouch area, use some of it on the gold-band areas and let it remain until the gold bands have been lightened sufficiently to even out the entire head of hair.
USE THE PROPER BLEACH
An oil bleach is not adequate to pre-bleach for the Blonde Toners. It is not fast enough or strong enough. In order to decolorize the hair sufficiently, one of the following should be used:
- Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol and Protinator.
- Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener and Lightening
- Instant Whip Lady Clairol and Lightening Booster.
- Blue Lightening Powder Bleach for extremely resistant, strong
PRE-BLEACHING WITH ULTRA-BLUE LADY CLAIROL
Clairol's newest bleach, Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Cremogenized Hair Lightener, used with Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator was designed specifically for this purpose. Used with 1-3 envelopes of Protinator, it bleaches hair faster, lighter and drabber than any creme bleach known today. The most comfortable bleach yet developed ... even patrons with sensitive scalp are more comfortable than ever before. Stinging, biting and burning sensations are eliminated during both bleaching and the toning treatment that follows.
Here are the exclusive advantages of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol which have made it the new standard of superiority in bleaching:
- Greater comfort than ever before during bleaching and toning.
- Lighter, faster bleaching.
- Double drabbing action.
- Refined Protinator dissolves quickly and completely, will not block
- Uniform consistency and performance—mixture never varies from
bottle to bottle, always produces a smooth thick creme.
- No puffing, running, dripping or drying out regardless of the
number of Protinator envelopes used.
- No unpleasant greenish cast during bleaching.
- Bleach washes out quickly and easily.
ULTRA-BLUE LADY CLAIROL PROTINATOR
Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator, unlike any other product used in conjunction with bleaches, is formulated to condition the protein struc ture of the hair as well as increase the bleaching and drabbing ability of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol.
Protinator was especially formulated for use with Ultra-Blue. Mixed with it, it makes the action of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol more effective in every way. It cannot be used effectively with any other hair lightener.
PRE-BLEACHING WITH LADY CLAIROL WHIPPED CREME HAIR LIGHTENER
Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener was Clairol's first all-purpose creme bleach to lighten, condition and shampoo in one treatment. It is still a favorite of experienced haircolorists. There are two reasons: It is easily whipped with a beater to exactly the creme consistency desired. One Lightening Booster makes its speed and bleach ing action great enough to pre-bleach non-resistant light hair. With two envelopes of Lightening Booster, its speed and bleaching action are increased to the maximum needed for all the high fashion blonde shades. When whipped to thick creme consistency with beater and applied generously, it will not run, drip or dry out.
PRE-BLEACHING WITH INSTANT WHIP LADY CLAIROL
Instant Whip mixes to creme consistency quickly without beating. Like the other Lady Clairol bleaches, it lightens, conditions and sham poos in one treatment. It won't run, drip or dry out. Used with one or two envelopes of Lightening Booster for pre-bleaching, its speed and bleaching action is a little greater than Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener—but not quite as great as Ultra-Blue when an equal number of Protinator envelopes is used.
LADY CLAIROL LIGHTENING BOOSTER
One or two envelopes of Lightening Booster are added to Lady Clairol or Instant Whip whenever either is used to pre-bleach hair for toning. Lightening Booster increases the speed and the bleaching action of both.
PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST
To predetermine the length of time to leave any Lady Clairol pre- bleach mixture on the hair and to check whether the hair is in suitable condition for bleaching, a preliminary strand test is necessary.
To save your customer's time, when the preliminary Patch Test for the toner is made, cut off several full strands of hair, secure them with scotch tape and use for preliminary strand test that follows:
Combine in a glass or plastic bowl 2 tsp. of Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer, ¼ tsp. (equivalent of 2 envelopes of Lightening Booster or Protinator with Ultra-Blue, and 1 tsp. Lady Clairol. Mix until creamy).